Showing posts with label Breeding for Beginners. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Breeding for Beginners. Show all posts

Thursday, August 22, 2013

Breeding - Building a strain of shamas

[Updated with additional text, video and photo on 26/8/10]

I have had some success in breeding the type of shama that I dreamed of long ago and today, my birds have developed a long way towards establishing my own “strain”.  My shamas now tend to have similar physical and mental characteristics as well as recognized traits to the extent that I am sometimes told that someone has seen a shama that ".... looks just like one of your birds" with the query as to whether it is in fact one of them.

My limited success has led some breeders, especially those who are new to breeding shamas, to ask what they need to do if they also want to develop a strain of shama. I will try to answer this question below and in subsequent posts.

For a start, you need to be aware that before you can breed the bird of your dreams, you will have to decide on the qualities that you desire in your bird.  Do you just want a bird with a song that is different and more melodious than those of other shamas with the courage to do well in song competitions?  This is a valid aim and it is in fact the aim of many Indonesian breeders who want to produce and train the shama for its song as their competitions are truly song competitions with little regard to other features such as display and structure. If this is your aim, then you will need to look for a bird that has what you want to possibly form your foundation stock on the basis of the principles that I suggest.

In other parts of South East Asia, song alone is not enough and hobbyists look for birds with a combination of qualities, such as good structure, long tails, melodious song, eye-catching display, stamina and courage.  For me, my dream bird needs to have all of these features.  In addition, it should have long tails exceeding 14” that are not too broad so that it will be able to sweep them above its head for extended periods during its display.

Bear in mind that if you are serious about creating your own strain, you will be striving to implement your vision of what you want your birds to be.  This involves much investment in time, money, effort and luck and many generations of birds may pass in your quest to achieve your aim. Over time and with selective breeding, you may be able to develop your own special strain. It obviously takes many years of sustained effort and commitment to do so.  

It has been more than a dozen years since I first paired Godfather and although there are 10 to 15 generations in my present strain of shamas, I am still some way from my dream bird, but that is what makes breeding exciting as each year I hope that from the birds that I breed, there will be the perfect shama. I know, though, that it is impossible to get the "perfect" shama but it is fun to try.

Having made up your mind on the qualities that your dream bird should have, look around for a bird that best fits the mental picture (preferably in video) of the bird you have in mind.   In looking for such a bird, the question arises as to whether it is preferable to breed from a wild-caught or a captive-bred.  It depends.  

If the breeder has really developed a strain of birds, and has the type of bird that you like, it makes sense to acquire a pair of birds from him, or at least an outstanding male or female.  His birds will have a concentration of the genes that you want in your birds and an outstanding bird from him to found your foundation stock will make it more likely for you to develop the type of birds that have similar attributes as his birds.  Later, you may wish to infuse new blood to develop your own strain.

On the other hand, if the breeder has been indiscriminately pairing his birds, or he has not himself developed a strain, then the offspring will have haphazardly inherited genes.  The result is that even if the bird(s) that you get from this breeder is an outstanding specimen, it will be less likely to be able to replicate itself in its progeny. In such case, it really makes little difference whether or not you get a breeder shama from him or you get a wild-caught that also has the features that you like. 

I often have requests for my females and I would like to use this opportunity to state that, as a rule, I do not part with my females.  As I am working towards developing a strain and I am a hobbyist and not a commercial breeder, it does not make sense for me to freely sell pairs that I have invested much time and effort to develop.  This is especially so as a buyer of such birds can acquire a pair and then potentially flood the market with birds that are supposedly from my line and sell them at high prices.  With this in mind, I have made my females (and males) available to only my very good friends, Michael and Jeffrey, whom I absolutely trust with my shamas.  

You will need to bear the above in mind when a seller claims that the bird he is offering for sale is from an established breeder or bred from his strain.  Perhaps, he may have bred something from one of the males that I occasionally sell and that are surplus to my needs but the progeny will not be fully from my strain and may bear no resemblance to my birds.  In such case, the phrase in law is, "caveat emptor" or "buyer beware". Loosely translated, it means that an intending buyer should make his own investigations to determine if what the seller claims is true.

However, if a shama is being acquired from Michael or Jeffrey and you are told that it was supplied by me or that it is 100% bred from my line of birds, you can be sure that it is true.  They are breeding directly from my line from parents that I made available to them and their taimongs are no different from mine.  Moreover, I know them well and will vouch for their integrity any time.

This year, I have made available 6 female shamas to Jeffrey.  Two are adults with 8" tails and 4 are taimongs.  One of the taimongs is Flame’s daughter that Jeffrey himself chose.  It has now moulted and it is outstanding.  With these females (less 1 taimong that Jeffrey released although it wasn't Vesak day) I expect that he will have the stock to breed the bird of his dreams next year.

Jeffrey has successfully mated Funkie this year and he shows a photo of a nest of 3 chicks from Funkie on a forum of which he is the moderator.  Here is a photo of the "pick of the litter".  An outstanding feature is the very large head which is on a defined neck. (Don't blame me for the fuzzy image. Jeffrey's photographic skills are far distant from his bird skills.)




Subsequently, Jeffrey sent me a video of the "pick" at less than one month old.  The video showcases the type of structure and character that we have succeeded in infusing into our shamas.  Note the elegant neck and strong character of the chick even at this tender age.  This chick also showcases well the dominant standing position of birds from my strain.  Unlike many shamas, birds from my strain tend to constantly pose with outstretched necks.  This can be seen in the video.



As for Michael, he only does very limited shama breeding as his primary interest is Jambuls.  Nevertheless, he has an outstanding breeder pair in Alpha and Killer that were both bred by me.  Last year, this pair produced 2 outstanding males, one of which far surpassed our expectations and we were looking forward to it completing its first moult.  Unfortunately, his maid accidentally let it escape and it was not recovered.   

This year, Michael began his shama breeding late.  He now has 5 chicks from 2 nests from Alpha and Killer with more likely to come.  The 3 chicks from the first nest (2 males and 1 female) are now with me.  They are about 50 days old.  They show real promise but being in the aviary it is difficult to properly assess them.

In about 3 weeks when their tails have fully moulted, I will transfer the 2 males to individual cages.  When they have settled down, Michael and I will together choose the male that I should keep for myself.  The other 2 chicks will be returned to Michael although he has generously suggested that I should keep all 3 for myself.

I saw the 2nd nest of 2 chicks yesterday (25/8/13).  They have left the nest but they are still with their parents in the breeding aviary. They are both males and they look exactly like the chicks from the first nest.  This suggests that Alpha is prepotent.

Since my friends and I are not likely to sell our female shamas, the beginning shama breeder will need to decide whether to get only a male from us or to get a pair from another source.  All I can say is that a male from us that is paired with an unrelated female will more likely produce more desirable progeny than perhaps a pair from another source.

The reason is that the generations of inbreeding will result in certain traits being fixed and these are more likely to be passed down, even through an unrelated female. In other words, you are more likely to find a prepotent bird from a breeder who has bred selectively for many generations until he has a strain than from one who does not have a strain.

As an example of what has been achieved by mating a male from an established strain with an unrelated female, below are 2 photos of the progeny of a bird, Max, that I had sold to Agus of Indonesia and the accompanying messages:

"Hi David, how are you doing? I just want to send a pic of Max's kid. Still pushing his tail; the body still plump as well"


"Next is one of Max's daughters"

"Out of the __ Max's chicks some turned out to be quite similar with the father."

"Thank you David, it wouldn't happen without Max. One again, thank you so much."

It will be noted that Agus mentions that some of Max's chicks have "turned out to be quite similar with the father".  This is a good indication that Max is prepotent.

Finally, I would like to finish this post with 2 photos of Phoenix that I took over the weekend.  He is just about to complete his third moult from taimong.  He has had a very good moult and I would have liked to take better photos.  This has not been possible as he is still in the moulting aviary and my view of him is restricted by the small aviary window.


You will see from the photos that Phoenix has a white spot below his eye.  He inherited it from his father, Skyhawk who also has a similar spot in the same location.  Skyhawk is of course prepotent. Remember, I had mentioned that a prepotent bird is one that tends to produce offspring that are as good or better than itself.  I believe that the qualities of Skyhawk's male chicks equal or exceed his.

NB. Jeffrey has just started posting again on his blog. His new post is on his line-breeding with Funkie and Fatina.  Here is the link to his post:
http://jeffctlow.blogspot.sg/

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Breeding for Beginners - Part 1

Hobbists who become interested in breeding shamas can be expected to have many questions in the course of their attempts at breeding. It helps to learn from the experience of others. I am therefore setting out my correspondence with XXX (he has requested that his identity be kept confidential) on his attempts at breeding the shama since the beginning of this year which has ended in him successfully breeding a number of shama chicks.

There are many emails and I will edit and post them as time permits.

12 Jan 2008
Dear Uncle David,

First of all, I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience in MBF forum. It has been very beneficial to me. I salute the perfect shama you have bred.

I'm about to make a decision to select 1 (or 2) out of the 4 females (A,B,C,D) for my breeding program. Highly appreciate your expert advice and your recommendation.

4 females as below:
A - 1st molt, about 3+ inch tail
B - 2nd molt, about 4+ inch tail
C - Taimong female, 2 inch tail
D - 2nd molt (I guest), wild caught bird (4+ inch)

A and B and C is from Taimong & D is wild bird (1month old)

Which one do you recommend in terms of best features for my breeding program. If I would select 2, which is your 1st & 2nd pick. I'm planning to start my breeding program in 1 month's time.

Appreciate your recommendation. Thanks and looking forward for your reply.

Best Regards,

XXX



14 Jan 2008
Hi XXX,

There are so many factors involved in selecting a female that it is not feasible to comment without seeing the male and the female. These factors include structure, temperament, display etc. For a beginner, the most important thing in selecting the pair is that they must be reasonably tame. This especially applies to the female. If she is nervy, she will not lay or brood the eggs. I would therefore suggest that you choose the tamest female.

Best regards,

David


6 March 2008

Dear Uncle David,

How are you?

I have recently paired my birds, and let both in the aviary 3 days ago.

Male is ready. He has been inspecting the nest-box for the last 2 days
& singing gently to the hen. Occasionally he calls the hen to nest-box but he is not successful.

The hen seems to be not quite ready. Occasionally I notice that they seem to be fighting. There is not much singing but there are displays. The pair do not appear to be interested in nest building but they sometimes inspect the nest material on the floor. So far, both of them are living together without major problem (ie, they are not fighting aggressively).

What do you think? Are they ready to breed and its just a matter of time ( 1-2 weeks?) or should I separate them.

As for nest-box material, I'm using broom fiber. I offer about 50
crickets at one 1 time. The weather is gloomy.

Best Regards,

XXX


7 March 2008

Hi,

All is well. If the pair are not disturbed and they have plenty of live food, they should be starting to build the nest within 1 or 2 weeks. Crickets alone are not enough. They should also have mealworms, frogs and fish. The fish can be small guppies and/or catfish.

David


7th March 2008

Dear Uncle David,

Great, thanks, but both of them prefer cricket than small fish but I have fed plenty of guppies to the hen 3 weeks prior to letting her into aviary. Do you think she has had sufficient calcium?

XXX



19th March 2008


Hi XXX,

As much variety of live food as possible should be fed to the pair. At a minimum, I feed crickets, mealworms, frogs and fish buffet style. Plentiful live food encourages them to breed. Vertebrates are especially important and should be fed when the birds are paired and at least until all the eggs are laid.

If you have further queries, please phone as I would rather talk than
type. My phone number is ######.

Best regards,

David


19th March 2008

Dear Uncle David,

Morning, how are you?

I want to give you some update on the progress last week.

As you predicted, nest building finished last Thursday. According to your forum, if everything goes well, 1st egg will lay 2nd day after nest completion
(not sure did I understand it correctly).

I did not check the nest box (as advised by you, better not disturb the pair) but I noticed that the male frequently sits on the nest for long periods (20/30min) since 2-3 days ago. Does it mean an egg has been laid? However, I hardly notice the hen sitting in the nest box even at night time.

What is the indicator should I look for if egg is laid?

(Sorry for emailing you instead of calling you, I would prefer to get your permission before calling you.) Do you mind if I call you from time to time?

Best regards,

XXX

Breeding for Beginners - Part 2

22nd May 2008

Dear Uncle David,

First of all, sorry for disturbing you the whole day and thanks for your advise and your inspiration. I discovered the bird forum since Nov07 and I really respect your dedication.

While sending this email, I had fed the baby bird twice this evening (3 small crickets each time, 7pm & 9:30pm, without head & leg).

As of now, the chick remains nervous and running away from me (hope will get better tomorrow.)

When do you normally start feeding the chick Vit B?

Attached is a photo (sorry for bad photo capture, will send a better shot once the chick stabilises)

BTW, I am compiling some chick photos for my reference from their day 1 hatching to flying off from nest box. I have downloaded most of your chick photos from the forum,
but missing some. Do you have the collection of the photo with 3-4 chick in 1 nest on day 7 to day 10, or from the 1st day that it emerges from the nest box ?

Thanks and good nite. Will keep you updated on the chick's development. Thanks again.

Regards,
XXX

6th June 2008

Dear Uncle David,

First of all, thank you very much for your past &
continuing advise. I really respect your dedication &
passion on Shama breeding.

Now the pair is nesting and the 2nd clutch expected to
hatch on coming Saturday if everything goes well (keep
my figers crossed).

In next breeding season, my priority is to fix the
tail length by line breeding with the father or
cross breeding with another of my 10" Shamas.

Attached is the photo of the parent & the
chick.

Regards,
XXX













10th June 2008

Hi XXX,

The chick looks nice. It looks like a male but its hard to accurately tell the sex from photos as the colour of the chick will be affected by whether the phtograph is over-exposed.

The father looks wonderful and worth breeding from. I would guess that the tails have the potential to be at least an inch longer if the bird has a proper molt.

Best regards,

David

Breeding for Beginners - Part 3

23rd June 2008

Dear Uncle David,

I apologize for keeping on calling you for advice. Here are my 3 chicks @ 7 days.
Today, they are 9 days old but I have yet to take photo.

Will update you soon.

Best Regards,

XXX




25th June 2008

25th June 2008

Dear Uncle David,
Thanks for calling and your support.

My Shama chick is now with one of the bird shops. Hope
the chick will fully recover from its leg injury & start
eating like normal.....

Regards,

XXX



Dear Uncle David,

Here is the newer photo @ Day 10(1)/11(2). Two chicks have started to fly. The last 1 will be tomorrow, I guess.

Some how, even though I put them in-doors, they are
still opening their beaks in afternoon(as shown in
photo). Morning and at night is fine. It may due to
hot weather.

Thanks for your guidance.

Best Regards,





26th June 2008


Hi XXX,

A bird that opens its beak constantly is either stressed because it is active all the time or it is thirsty. In any case, a little water helps. I feed my chicks water with vitamin B when they constantly open their beaks. I do this with a 1 cc sringe.

David


26th June 2008

Dear Uncle,

Thanks for your advice.

I did that yesterday with Vitamin B injected into cricket and it seem that it works and stress level has reduced. They have cooled down and they are not frequently opening their beaks now.

BTW, when will the chick starts drinking water by themselves?

Best Regards,


26th June 2008


Hi XXX,

From the 14th day after hatching, I place a shallow plastic container with water in the cage and the chicks learn to drink by themselves within a few days. At the same time, I also kill some crickets or other insects and place it on the floor of the cage with some dry food. The natural tendency of the chicks is to peck at anything on the ground and they are soon pecking at the food. I nevertheless continue to offer food to the chicks by hand until I am sure that they are eating enough on their own. This will be around the 25th to the 30th day.

David

Breeding for Beginners - Part 4

3rd July 2008

Dear Uncle David,

My 3 chicks from the 2nd batch are doing well so far, 19 days by now.

Need your advise.

My female is sitting on her 3rd batch of eggs (expected to hatch in 8 days time (provided the eggs are fertile), but male started molting and now is about 20%. Wings & head feathers have started dropping.

Should I remove the male from aviary now or after the chicks reach 20 days? Or should I take no action and leave the male in the aviary.


Best Regards,

3rd July 2008

Hi XXX

There is a good chance the eggs will be infertile as the male will likely not have mated with the female as he is entering into molt. However, the female should be allowed to continue to brood the eggs just in case any are fertile. If the female has sat on the eggs for 3 days or more, it is safe to remove the male as she will continue to sit. Alternatively, you can leave the male with her until the eggs hatch or they have proved to be infertile.

David


7th July 2998,

Dear Uncle david,

For your viewing. Here is my 2nd batch 22nd days chicks.
I think I had 2 females & 1 male from this batch.

Best Regards,



8th July 2008,

Hi XXX,

Its wonderful to see that you have succeeded in having 3 chicks from one nest. It's not possible for me to tell the sex of the chicks from the photographs as the lighting and the contrast are seldom accurate.

Best regards,


8th July 2008,

Dear Uncle David,
In fact, my breeding program can't be success without your advise.
i'm constantly reading your new blog now, i reckon it has been more & more information. thanks for your passion. appreciate it.

Best Regards,
XXX

24th July 2008,

As you expected, my 3rd batch egg is infertile. Male had complete moulting head & body, i think he had a session of stress moult and form is up without changing the tail.

The male has started to court the female into nest box by singing softly to it. I think this is good sign of going for 4th batch egg laying. (what do you think?)


Regards,

XXX

Breeding for Beginners - Part 5

6th August 2008
Hi Uncle david,

Just to update you about 4th clutch.

One egg shell found on avairy floor yesterday, and I hope to have more today.
As of now, at least 1 chick.

Need your advice. Is it safe to let the female progress with 5th clucth (she looks healthy)or is it risky. Could there be egg-binding problems if she continues. Should I stop them by removing the nest box?

Thanks.

Best Regards,


7th Ausgust 2008

Hi XXX,

I just had 4 chicks in a 5th clutch. I usually stop at 3 clutches but for the Icon pair I decided this year to let them breed as many times as they want. There were 2 reasons for this. Firstly, last year all the 6 males from this pair were very good to excellent so the more chicks I could get from them, the better. Secondly, I am curious to know how many clutches a pair that is in good condition can have in a season.

So far the pair have had 20 chicks or an average of 4 chicks per clutch this season. The pair still look fine and I will let them nest until they molt or until the number of eggs per clutch is reduced below 3.

If the pair receives sufficient calcium in the form of vertebrates, I don't think there will be any problem with egg-binding. I have had no problems although I don't supplement with calcium during the breeding season.

Best regards,

David


7th August 2008

Hi Uncle david,

Wow, congratulations & fantanstic pair. 20 chicks and still continuing!

Looking forward to hear from you that Icon pair can go for 7-8 clutch in a season.

For my 4th clutch, I think only 1 chick hatched & I will remove the nest box after the chick fledges. I may try to let the parents raise the chick.

Best Regards


13th August 2008

Hi Uncle david,

Need your advice. Based on your past experience, what is your assessment on survivor rate by letting parents raise the chick (the risk is I'm out to work and do not know whether the chick is eatting or not during 1st & 2nd day)?. I'm planning to let the parents raise the 4th clutch of chicks. I think there are 2 chicks at 9 days. What is your view?

Best Regards,

XXX


13th August 2008

Hi,

Icon's 5th clutch had 4 chicks (and 1 infertile egg) which I removed for hand-feeding on the evening of the 4th day (5 days ago). The 1st egg of the 6th clutch was laid yesterday. The mother seems to have no problem making and laying eggs.

If you want the parents to look care for the chicks after they leave the nest, make sure there are alot of branches for the chicks to land on. Hard to predict the survival rate. It all depends on whether the chicks injure themselves and then refuse to open their beaks to be fed.

David


13th August 2008

Thanks for our advise too, most likely i will give a try on letting the parent feeding them. ( i have a lot of branches in my aviary now).

Out of curiosity, why you removing the chick from nest so soon? (at 4th day?)

Best Regards,


28th August 2008

BTW, i have attached you my 2nd batched chick at 2 month old for you comment on the structure. so that i can enchance it in 2nd generation.

Best Regards,






29th August 2008

Hi Uncle David,

May I know the brand of Multivitamin you are using for your Shama?

I'm planning to buy one. I have in mind the Seven-seas brand for children.

Best Regards,



29th August 2008

Hi XXX,

I use the liquid brand of liquid multi-vitamins that I buy from GNC in Singapore. The brand does not really matter. You need to make sure that the expiry date is a long way away.

Best regards,


29th August 2008


Hi XXX,

You have a really nice chick with great promise. The taimong tails seem to be about 5 1/2" or more from the photograph. This is long and I expect that the first molt tails will exceed 10". By the third molt the tails should exceed 12"

May I have your permission to do a write-up of your shama breeding based on your emails to me and post it on my blog.

Best regards,

David


29th August 2008

Dear Uncle David,

I wish your prediction of the tail length will come true (keep the fingers crossed).

Pls feel free to copy of my email thread.

Is my pleasure to contribute to you website. I couldn't start my breeding program without your advice.


Regards,
XXX